This is how Russians live?

Travels with David: Asia, Africa and The Balkans

As the train pulled out of Kazakhstan’s capital Astana, Valery opened the first bottle of cognac and was figuring out how much alcohol our compartment would need for the 15-hour overnight trip. It was only 4:30 p.m. and, with several hours of daylight left, I wanted to look out of the window, not drink. But to be sociable, I agreed to a couple of shots. As the evening wore on and the alcohol took its toll, the conversation became more animated and difficult to follow. The next morning, as the train neared Kostanai, Valery opened a bottle of beer and offered me another. “Now you know kak russkiye zhivut (how Russians live),” he said, with a smile. I wanted to say I hoped not all Russians lived that way but recognized the sincerity of the hospitality. It was another warm memory of a cold winter in Kazakhstan.